Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Juneau -- And a Whale Story

When we started on the road we had several things in mind that we wanted to do and after seven years we have added a few to do items to the list.  A new one is to visit every state capitol building.  We have missed a few along the way where we did not stop, so not being sure if we will ever return to Alaska, we decided we needed to go to Juneau and add the Alaska state capitol.  While that was the goal, the trip on the Fjord Express exceeded all expectations with the most fabulous whale story I have ever had the chance to tell. 
No, we were not sitting still, I even got to drive the boat.  I guess Captain George felt safe leaving it in my hands when he knew we were in over 1000 feet of water.
The Eldred Rock Lighthouse was built in the early 1900's.  It has been automated since 1973 and they are now looking for a buyer.  Even Nanc with her love of lighthouses is not interested in a house on a rock in the middle of the Lynn Canal in Alaska.
More Stellar sea lions.  We have seen them on every boat excursion we have taken.  This time one of them was putting on a show rolling and jumping out of the water. 
These ones where hanging out on a buoy.  We stopped and Captain George, who is trying to teach them to ring the bell, was not able to get them to cooperate on this trip.
Something a little different, an eagle overlooking a group of harbor seals.
Downtown Juneau is a compact area between the water and the mountains.  While it is geared to the tourist, it has all the capital city offices related to the state and federal government you would see in any capital.
The houses extend up the side of the mountain directly above the downtown.  It reminded us a lot of Pittsburgh with a few long stairways going to the higher streets.
The public art is all about Alaskan heritage from the animals, to the natives, to the miners.
Ravens are everywhere.  This big guy was giving Nanc the eye.
The state capitol is one of the most nondescript of the capitols we have visited.  Unlike most capitols, you could not pick it out from any of the surrounding office buildings.  The work on the left side is to reinforce and earthquake proof the building while replacing over half the bricks that have been damaged.  
Even the forty seat House chamber was a small, low ceiling room unlike any of the grand chambers we have seen in other states.
The 49 star flag was only used a few months until Hawaii became the 50th state later that year, 1959.  The outline of the state is carved from a piece of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline.  The state seal and a drawing celebrating Alaska's diverse cultures and economy.  Like many of the capitol buildings we have visited, this one displayed artworks done by native Alaskan artists.  
They still have phone booths with real dial phones.  We did not see Clark Kent, but word is Super Sarah used them during her half term as governor.
The old St. Nicolas Russian Orthodox Church is undergoing a major rehabilitation.  
The land part of the tour also stopped at Mendenhall Glacier.  This is one of the easiest glaciers to get close to in the whole state.  We took the one mile trail to Nugget Falls and the bottom of the glacier.
We even had a close encounter with this black bear near the glacier.  Fortunately, we were on a raised walkway and the bear just casually walked right beneath us.  Some people on the tour got to see her catch a salmon, but we missed that. 
On the return trip we had the most spectacular whale watching experience ever.  There are only two pods of humpback whales that have ever been seen using a bubble net to capture food.
Thar she blows, at least seven whales are circling together as they prepare to dive. 
They are now diving.  When they are down they exhale and create a net of bubble to hold the food in place.
We have never seen this many whales together.
When their hump comes high out of the water you know you are going to see the fluke.
Three at one time.
Then they all pop out of the water together in a circle to eat the surrounded prey.  You can tell where they are going to come up by watching the gulls, but it still happens very quickly.
At this point they came up so close to the boat Captain George had to back up.  You can see the water being expelled through the baleen.
The closest one has its month wide open.
And then they do it all over again. Incredible!!!!
More whale's tails
Two diving and one getting ready.  This is without a doubt the most spectacular display of nature we have ever seen.  We got an unbelievably close up look at these magnificent animals doing something that few whales do and very few people ever see.  In a trip of so many highlights this has to be right at the top.
A perfect ending to a perfect day.  If you want a GREAT wildlife experience with a GREAT family run business, make sure you take the Fjord Express from Haines or Skagway to Juneau.  You will not be disappointed.

Monday, July 28, 2014

Haines

We had a great stay in Haines with the usual mix of weather from rain, to clouds, to sun.  Typical Alaska. We hiked, did some exploring and made new friends.  One disappointment was the trip we wanted to take from here to Juneau was full every day.  The good news, we were able to book the same trip from Skagway, our next stop.  Haines is a small working village that is more about fishing than tourism.  Unlike some other popular tourist towns, the population is the same year round.  It sits right on the water and is surrounded by beautiful mountains, so we had great scenery and wildlife viewing..
You can see Opus at Oceanside, the small RV park with 23 sites right on the water where we stayed.  The owner, Joyce, was really friendly and very helpful about informing us what to do and see in town.
This is our front window view.  We did a hike to the distant point on the right.
Haines is know for its eagles with 300 to 400 year round birds and as many as 4000 in the fall when the fish are running.  Most of these were right in front of Opus.
What appears to be an ever growing collection of cairns. 
On two beautiful days we hiked.  What a change from the interior of Alaska.  The forest here was crowded with many tall trees.
The hike to the top of Mount Riley offered one of the most spectacular 360 degree views we have very experienced.  You can see the town on the left and Tayia Inlet that goes to Skagway on the right.
Loving the sunshine with Rainbow Glacier in the background.
This is looking south where the Chilkat River flows into Lynn Canal that goes all the way to Juneau.
At the RV park we had a dungeness crab potluck.  The locally caught crabs were cleaned and steamed and served by Buffalo, the camp host.  No butter or sauce required for these fresh tasty treats. 
Haines has three museums, the American Bald Eagle Foundation (top), the Sheldon Museum (left) and the Hammer Museum (right).  Each has its own unique display.
The Sheldon has a great selection of local history items and Tlingit native artifacts.  This is a great stop.
The Bald Eagle Foundation is dedicated to preserving eagle habitat and also work to rehabilitate injured raptors.  We got a close up look at these three, including the resident eagle, Bella, whose wings were damaged beyond repair when she hit power lines.  Don't miss being there for Bella's 2:30 feeding.  There is also a great collection with all the animals of Alaska in a huge diorama. 
What can be said about the Hammer Museum.  They really pound home the fact there are so many different kinds of hammers for so many different jobs.
We met Marcel and Sonya at a stop along the Glenn Highway and crossed paths with them a couple of times on our way to Haines.  We finally met up with them in Haines and had dinner together and hope to stop and see them in Winnipeg on the way back to WashPA.
Haines small boat harbor.  Later in the week it was full of gill netters who were waiting for the salmon season to open.  The season is only open for a few days and they fish regardless of the weather making it a deadliest catch kind of job.
More beautiful mountains and Fort William H. Seward.  The fort was built in 1902 to have a military presence after gold was discovered in the Klondike.  After WWII the army sold the fort to several former soldiers who were stationed here.
Top left is the old firehouse that has just been restored.  Top right, a couple old cars and the chief surgeon's house.  Bottom is the enlisted men's barracks and the big houses along officers row.  The fort is typical of many we have seen from the same period during our travels.
A center dealing with Tlingit culture and carving is located on the fort grounds.  We met a local carver who did fantastic work. 
At Oceanside we met Bjorn and Britta from Hamburg, Germany.  This is their fourth trip to Alaska and this one is four months long.  They are able to take extended leaves from their jobs every four or five years.  How great is that!!  We had a fun time swapping travel stories and now have a place to stay when we make it to Hamburg.
Every evening we saw three or four big cruise ships come by on their way from Skagway.  A couple of small ships, like the one on the left, stopped in Haines while we were there.  They only get one big ship a week.
Thursday was our seventh "roadaversary" of being on the road, so we celebrated with a one hour cruise on an Alaska Marine Highway ferry to Skagway.  To load, I had to drive onto the ship through the side, drive to the rear, do a 180 degree turn, and pull to the front near the door I entered.  Very interesting maneuvering and I'm glad I had seven years of experience under my belt before doing it!!!

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Year Seven Summary

THE LIST..............................Year 5.......YEAR 6.........Year 7
Motorhome Miles...................11,209.........5,300...........9012
Average Miles Per Day..................30.6..........14.1.............24.6
Average Trip................................180............160............180
Gallons of Diesel Fuel.................1467............747..........1223
Average Cost Per Gallon.................3.86...........3.84...........4.15
CRV Miles...............................8776.........11344.........9138
Bicycle Miles..............................180............107...............0
Camp Sites...................................62.............33..............50
Average Nights in Each..................5.9..........11.1...............7.3
Number of Frosty Nights............very few.....none..........a few
Number of Windy, Stormy Days. very few....few........too many
Number of States(Provinces).........17(4).........11(0).......14(3)
National Parks & Monuments........25.............10............12
Blog Posts.....................................79.............61.............71
Days of Exercise (Jim).................161...........193...........185
Days of Exercise (Nanc)..............223...........238...........259
Number of haircuts (Jim).................0...............0.............0
Old & New Friends & Family..Priceless...Priceless....Priceless

This marks seven years that we have been retired and living on the road. The lifestyle continues to exceed all expectations of travel and spending time with friends and family all over North America. We are in Alaska to celebrate this anniversary so we have been to all 50 states and 11 of the 13 Canadian provinces since 2007. While we have seen so many beautiful places and have had many great experiences, meeting old and making new friends is the real highlight of what we do. We started the year in the East and traveled across the country to the Southwest and then north to Alaska while putting 9,012 miles on Opus and 9,138 miles on the CRV. We stayed in 50 places and paid an average of $20.29 a night. This was a bit over the $600 a month we try to keep under but not bad at all considering how expensive it is to stay in Canada and Alaska. The biggest expense increase this year was the cost of fuel at $4.15 a gallon. It was very expensive in Canada and some of the smaller towns in Alaska. It is what it is!!

We started year seven in WashPA where we spent two months taking care of doctors and dentists and getting together with family and friends. While we travel all over North America we will always consider Western Pennsylvania our home, it's a Burgh thing. Our first stop was at Duncan RV Repair in Elkhart where we had a few minor and a couple of major issues fixed. One was replacing the fridge cooling unit that died while in WashPA and the other was replacing the house batteries with AGMs that do not require maintenance. While there we explored the Lake Michigan coast and the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore. We then did a week of everything Mark Twain in Hannibal, a neat little Mississippi River town. It was then on to Branson where we did a show and visited nearby Eureka, Arkansas. We drove a bit of Route 66 with stops in Oklahoma City, Amarillo to see the Cadillac Ranch, and then to Las Vegas, NM. This was followed by a stay at Ojo Caliente to soak our bones in the refreshing waters. Anytime we are anywhere near Ojo we will make it a priority to visit.

Our WashPA friends Mike and Sherri visited us and we went to Santa Fe, Taos and Albuquerque. They loved the balloon fiesta and we once again worked with Mike and T Liberti and got to soar. We saw Class of 07 mates Jim & Bobby, Ron & Linda, Leland & Cathy and Marty while in New Mexico. This was followed by two plus months in Mesa. We got to spend time with Sun Life friends Rene & Susanne, Earl & Kathleen, Lance & Carol and Dick & Lynn who were staying there for the winter. We got to balloon a couple more times, did a couple of art shows with Allan and Sharon and spent time with WashPA native Linda Rocks who now lives in Arizona. We had a great visit with John and Patrice who spent a couple of nights with us on their Western trip. While we did not get to Betty's RV Park this year we got our fix of Betty's friends when Dave & Sara, Dan & Merlene, Jim & Cookie and Tony & Marybeth stopped while in Mesa. We did a lot of exploring around the Phoenix area and took a vacation to Secrets Capri in Mexico for our anniversary. We really are not having any problems finding ways to spend the money we have since Nanc went on Social Security.

To start 2014 we met many RV friends, Omer & Sylvia, Trish, Marty and Ron & Linda in Quartzite. We then had extended stays in Lake Havasu, Yuma and Desert Hot Springs. This was our first time in Havasu and Hot Springs and we enjoyed both areas. While in Havasu there was a balloon festival and the winter blast pyrotechnics events. While there we saw Boomer friends Luke & Judy who we also saw in Albuquerque, Gilbert and Desert Hot Springs. We did day trips to the Desert Bar, Oatman to see the donkeys and Laughlin, NV to the casinos. In Yuma we got to see Dick and Joan Morgan, PA friends who we had not seen in years until we went on the road. We took a couple day trips to Mexico and explored the Center of the World in Felicity, CA. Allan and Sharon came to Yuma and Desert Hot Springs with their rig and we did some exploring together. While in Desert Hot Springs we had the full SoCal experience with wind, smog and an earthquake. We went to Joshua Tree National Park and Sunnylands estate. We really loved the hot springs at Sam's Family Spa, the RV park where we stayed. Tom and Georgie did a personal mail delivery and stayed with us for a week. We had great time exploring the area and local restaurants. We next went to Tehachapi to see the famous railroad loop over the mountains and then on to Las Vegas where we had Opus serviced, filled our larder with supplies for the trip to Alaska and contributed a few dollars to the local casinos.

From Vegas we headed north with the goal of being in Alaska, 3200 miles away, by June 1st. We added some national parks stamps to our book in Nevada at Great Basin, in Idaho at Craters of the Moon, in Montana at Glacier and in Alberta at Waterton. We spent 9 days in Twin Falls where we got a new clutch and tires for the CRV while waiting for the weather to improve. We next stopped in Butte where Dan and Merlene caught up with us and we had a fun time checking out the town and a couple of drinking establishments. In Coram, Montana we explored the area, washed Opus and took care of a few last minute details before crossing the border into Canada. Then it was on to the start of the Alaska Highway in Dawson Creek, the official starting point for our Alaska Highway adventure. Because we were in the Western mountains so early, we did experience several nights of frosty weather, but are happy to report that we have not had any freezing weather since the middle of May when we crossed into Canada.

The trip up the Alaska Highway was wonderful with a few exceptions that all involved the road conditions. There were several stretches in the Yukon with miles of frost heaves when we were heading north and most of these were miles of gravel where they were rebuilding the road as we headed south. In northern British Columbia we saw a lot of different wildlife along the road and soaked our bones in Liard Hot Springs. In the Yukon we stopped at the sign forest in Watson Lake and spent a couple of days exploring Whitehorse. In Whitehorse we chose to stay on the Alaska Highway rather than going to Dawson City. A good decision that was reinforced every time we talked to anyone who had driven the Top of the World Highway this summer. Missing Dawson City was really my only disappointment of the trip.

Our first destination in Alaska was Fairbanks where the highlight was going to the Arctic Circle. We also did a riverboat cruise, visited local museums and drove to Chena Hot Springs. In Denali National Park we took a bus into the interior and saw a lot of animals including the big five, wolf, moose, caribou, Dall sheep and grizzles. We became 30%ers when we got a peak at Mount McKinley several times and then finally were able to see the whole mountain with a beautiful blue sky background.  From Talkeetna we went flight seeing and got to see the top of the mountain above the clouds and another real highlight, landed on a glacier. WOW!!! Our next stop was Wasilla, our base to explore Anchorage, and meet up with Class of 07 mates John and Lora who served as our tour guides. We went to Hatcher Pass, Independence Mine and Iditarod headquarters. In Anchorage we went birding at Potter Marsh, visited the Native Alaska Heritage Museum and enjoyed some of the summer solstice activities. Other then the highway conditions we had our biggest bump in the road in Anchorage where we had to have the head gasket replaced on Opus. An unexpected expense, but something that could have happen anywhere and fortunately happen were there was a Cummins repair facility.

From Anchorage we headed to Seward were we had a beautiful site right on the water with a view of the bay and mountains. We hiked in Kenai Fjords National Park and on Marathon Mountain, took a wildlife boat cruise and visited the Alaska Sealife Center for an up close look at some of the animals we had seen at a distance in the wild. Next we moved to Ninilchik where we ended up staying for two weeks because we found Country Boy RV Park and its owners Chuck and Jerrie who made us feel right at home. We had a couple of potlucks at the park and made many new friends, Larry and Molly, Don and Pat, Roger and Merv. From our base in Ninilchik we explored Homer, Kenai and Soldotna. Homer is a neat little town with many shops and a big fishing fleet. My highlight here was catching a 71 pound halibut on the fishing charter. My disappointment was not catching any salmon, but I made up for that at our next stop in Valdez. In Valdez we took a boat tour to the Columbia Glacier and saw a lot of sea life.  Also while there we ran into SKP friends Wallace, Wanda, Bennett and Bea for the third time during our travels in Alaska, how neat.   We are ending year seven in Haines where we once again have a beautiful site on the Lynn Canal with a great view of the surrounding mountains. We enjoyed exploring the area and spent a couple of evenings with Marcel and Sonya who we have crossed paths with several times the last few weeks.  We did a day hike to the top of Mount Riley to one of the most beautiful views we have experienced during our travels.  We always like to check out micro breweries, so we visited nearly half of Alaska's and found most to be very good with a big variety of beers to choose from. Only one in Anchorage seemed to be an overpriced tourist trap.

Overall year seven has been fantastic and we already have big plans for year eight. When we leave Alaska we will be heading cross country to WashPA for two months of family, friends, doctors and dentists. When we leave there in October we will be going to Cleveland for our third Yanni wedding since we have been on the road. We will be spending a few weeks at Betty's over Thanksgiving before heading to South Florida for the holidays and the Keys for the winter. In the spring we want to return to Louisiana for another stop at Betty's and possibly a return to the New Orleans Jazz Festival. Next summer we plan to explore the Southeast, an area we have not spent much time in while fulltiming. That said, our plans are always written in sand and are subject to change depending on what we encounter along the way. No matter what, we will continue running down our dream.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

Valdez to Haines

Since arriving in Alaska most of the of places we wanted to visit were within an easy day's drive of each other.  That was not the case with our next stop, Haines, which is 700 miles from Valdez.  That is three days for us with over 500 miles being on the same roads we had traveled to get here.  We had to go through the Yukon and British Columbia in Canada before reentering the US 40 miles from Haines.  It was also a return drive over the worst section of the Alaska Highway we had traveled between Tok and Destruction Bay.  In Tok we found a very good deal at Young's Chevron where if you filled up you could dry camp for free.  And filling up here was a good idea as there are few stations on the next portion of the highway and they are all much more expensive than the $4.70 a gallon we paid. 
The weather was great and road conditions were okay from Valdez to Tok.  We did have some beautiful scenery with high clouds, warm temperatures and plenty of sunshine..
On day two from Tok to Congdon Creek most of the day was sunny with only a couple of passing showers that actually helped clean the bugs off the windshield and keep the dust down.
This is what the road looked like in May on the way north.  Long frost heaves that were marked as some kind of crime scene.  Little did we know it would be worse than this on our return.
This is what the same section looked like on the way south, over 50 miles of mud and gravel.  Even the section that was under construction in the spring was just tarred and chipped so even that was twenty miles of potential windshield nicking stones.  Fortunately, there was so little traffic that when we saw an oncoming truck we just stopped, thus avoiding any damage to the windshield. 
Is this some kind of joke?  A sign in the middle of a gravel section warning of bumps ahead.  As you can see, at this point we were only going 11 miles per hour.  How could it get any worse???
Needless to say both Opus and the CRV were very, very dirty after a long 240 miles of very bad road.  The first thing we did in Haines was take them both to the car wash for a bath.
We saw a couple of black bears and a lot of beautiful wildflowers along the way.
We stayed in the same Yukon Territory Campground, Congdon Creek, that we stayed in on the way north.  In May the mountain snow was down low and it was one of the coldest nights we had on the whole trip. 
This time most of the snow was gone and the flowers were in bloom.  We even sat out around the campfire, something we had not done for a long time.
On day three we headed down the Haines Highway that was by far the best road we have driven in a long time.  It was a beautiful trip with great views of the St. Elias Mountains in Kluane National Park. 
Near the summit the mountain peaks were cloud covered, but we could still see several high mountain glaciers.
More high mountain glaciers.
From the high point of 3,520 foot Chilkat Pass, it was a long steep downhill to the Chilkat River valley and sea level in Haines.  We will be in Haines for a few days and will then take Opus on the ferry for a one hour ride to Skagway, a ride that will save 350 miles of driving.  We sure hope the roads are better the rest of the way south.  We are keeping our fingers crossed.